Back at the adult table

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The French-Japanese tasting counter inside a Hudson Yards grocery store, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, is back after a brief closure and a refreshing of the interior following an acrimonious split with star chef César Ramirez over the summer. 

The Vibe: Past aisles of potato chips and pop, the door to Chef’s Table divides chaos from calm. Enter to find a 20-seat, U-shaped counter, which dominates the restaurant’s dining room. Once colored black and brown, the lab-like space now glows white. Behind a long white pass, chefs work silently, organizing A5 wagyu tartare crowned with wasabi and caviar (above) and ikura tartlettes, horseradish-laced and dusted with dill powder.

The Food: Over the 14 years since it first opened in Downtown Brooklyn, Chef’s Table earned a reputation for serving what may have been New York’s most flawless tasting menu. The new co-executive chef team of Marco Prins and Max Natmessnig (both Chef’s Table vets), continues the precise cooking with a 14-course tasting menu ($430 per), with more global influence. The restaurant’s most iconic course, the uni bite, remains sublime, and now features a waffle base. New plates include binchotan-charcoal-kissed bluefin tuna in a jalapeño-accented aguachile vinaigrette and a buttery grilled Norwegian langoustine.

The Verdict: It’s a lot of legacy to live up to, but so far so fare. –Kat Odell

→ Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare (Hudson Yards) • 95 Guernsey St. • OpenTable.