Clover Hill is peak Brooklyn Heights

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

It’s hard to win a Michelin star and yet still feel somewhat off the radar, but such is the situation at Clover Hill, which opened in southeast Brooklyn Heights right before the pandemic. These days, the restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, but it’s at night when former Eleven Madison Park and One White Street chef Charlie Mitchell — who joined the restaurant for its early 2022 reopening — gets serious.

On an early spring visit, the seven-course, seafood-heavy tasting menu was a revelation, with several dishes ascending to the ethereal. The setting (refined) and vibe (unpretentious) clinch it — this one’s a keeper. After dinner, step out onto the gorgeous block, stroll up Hicks Street past Ingas Bar, and try to remember a time when there wasn’t a decent meal to be found in all of Brooklyn Heights. Mitchell is up for the James Beard Emerging Chef award, to be awarded June 5. Book with haste. 

→ Clover Hill • 20 Columbia Place (Brooklyn Heights) • tasting menu $225, wine pairing $95 • weeknight availability on Tock in May and June ($75 deposit per).