Detour land

Isabela (Amenia, NY)

GETAWAYS • Hudson Valley

The Skinny: Last week, Jose Ramirez Ruiz (of beloved, shuttered Semilla) opened his new spot Isabela in the sleepy Upstate town of Amenia. His first solo project is a departure from the tiny portions and complicated preparations Semilla was known for, instead offering a menu of generous portions in thoughtful presentations. On its first (rainy) Saturday night, Isabela was bustling.

The Vibe: De riguer for an upscale Upstate restaurant these days: uncluttered modern farmhouse. The space is divided into two sections, with the dining room ambiently lit by wax-dripping candlesticks, accented by a large open window exposing the kitchen. Tables are generously spaced, with woodwork and mirrors by local craftsmen. On the other side, there’s a bar area with a few tables open for walk-ins and a more casual, locals-only feel, complete with a TV over the bar.

The Food: Ruiz offers dishes with seasonal produce and flavors, drawing from his Puerto Rican heritage. The snacks are your classic smart bar bites (olives, bresaola, oysters, cheese) plus a large cut of Jose’s sourdough served with a ramekin of butter swimming in buttermilk from a nearby dairy farm. Appetizers are heavy on vegetables, like a punchy salad with a housemade spruce vinaigrette and kale gnudi with beans and subtle guanciale.

At first glance, the main dishes read as run-of-the-mill — chicken, steak, trout — but Ruiz layers on the flavor, turning ostensibly simple proteins into something exceptional. The fluke with salsa verde and the pot au feu served with wasabi-esque mustard pack unexpected punches, setting them apart from the rest of the region's food. If sitting at the bar, I’d just order sides, like those beef-fat purple potatoes, which would go perfectly with the bar-only burger.

There are a few dessert options, but the rice pudding for two is the one that matters. With whipped cream folded in and sides of dulce de leche, juicy elderberries, homemade crumbled crepe cookie, and candied walnuts, it’s their signature finisher for good reason.

The Drink: Cocktails are made with local spirits, including a tipperary with Taconic bourbon on tap. The few non-alcoholic options borrow from the cocktail’s ingredients, including a maple soda and oat “horchata.” There’s also a drinkable apple cider vinegar, in case you forgot that Ruiz came from the world of fine dining.

The Verdict: Amid a growing number of new farm-to-table options in the area, Isabela differentiates itself with bold flavors while successfully capturing small-town bistro charms. Rarely can chefs like Ruiz so effortlessly transition from high-end gastronomic experience to approachable dining, but he pulls it off here. –Sylvie Florman

→ Isabela (Amenia, NY) • 3330 Route 343 • Wed-Sun 5-10p (dinner 530-9p) • Reserve.