BARS • First Round
The Skinny: Opened on Great Jones Street in September, petite French wine bar Elvis is the newest project from the team behind Le Dive and The Nines.
The Vibe: Thirty-four seats plus space for standing, the design takes cues from Parisian sidewalk cafès as a place for both after-work drinks or long weekend lunches that bleed into dinner. Hints of the space’s longtime tenant, Great Jones Cafe, remain in the burnt orange color scheme and original wood bar running down one side. But the burgundy tiles and red marble counters that line the room are new, as are the wine bottles behind the bar painted with Elvis’s logo, a just-kitschy-enough touch. Vintage posters and a mix of ceramic plates hang above rattan stools, two of which allegedly had their legs partially sawed off to fit beneath the street-facing window. The cut was worth it — it’s the best seat in the place.
The Food: Casual wine bar fare — multiple pâtés, cured beef topped with hazelnuts and fennel pollen, soft cheese from Champagne served alongside hunks of honeycomb and tart tomato jam, anchovies dressed in diced chilis with good olive oil. The Gaufre waffle with raclette, potato, and espelette pepper will surely be a hit as the weather gets cooler.
The Drink: A wine list exclusively of French naturals by the glass or bottle — many of which are reasonably priced — and classic cocktails with a slight twist (a martini with tangerine, a coffee negroni, “The Shaggy,” a rum-based riff on a Moscow mule).
The Verdict: A worthy successor to Great Jones Cafe (and shorter-lived The Jones) and a consideration for those seeking café culture beyond Dimes Square and its masses. –Caitlin Pangares
→ Elvis (Noho) • 54 Great Jones St • Mon-Wed 4p-12a, Fri-Sat 4p-1a, Sun 2-10p • Walk-ins only.