Fresh terroir

La Compagnie Flatiron (Flatiron)

BARS • First Round

The Skinny: An offshoot of the Soho wine bar La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, La Compagnie Flatiron opened last spring in a swankier, larger, more grown-up space.

The Vibe: Sophisticated, approachable, and a little sultry. The bar’s design is immaculate, characterized by traditional New York brickwork and original parquet flooring, with industrial metal accents and a variety of barstools, velvet couches, and cozy two-seater tables.

The List: Refreshingly, not dogmatically natural, though there’s plenty of natural wine to be found. Fans of the classics will delight in the bar’s extensive Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux offerings. The list also highlights a number of Italian greats and is peppered with off-the-beaten-path picks from Argentina, South Africa, New York, and beyond. (In the spirit of bringing a piece of the bar’s original repertoire uptown, La Compagnie Flatiron carries on with its Wine Boot Camp series and daily Mystery Wine tradition — winners who guess the blind pour taste correctly win the bottle along with bragging rights.)

The Food: A half-dozen snacks for the table, a handful of skewers, and a set of composed plates of meats and fish, with an emphasis on locally sourced produce. Highlights include housemade gougères, chicory salad, and black truffle flatbread made with béchamel, confit sunchoke, and toasted chestnuts.

Why It’s FOUND: A more mature sibling of a beloved spot with a 23-page list — including non-alcoholic beverages and 20+ wines by the glass. –Vicki Denig

→ La Compagnie Flatiron (Flatiron) • 6 W 24th St • Mon-Wed 5p-12a, Thur-Sat 5p-12a, Sun 4-11p • Reserve.