From the ground up

Restaurant Manor Rock (Hudson)

GETAWAYS • Upstate

The Skinny: Opened last month at the top of Hudson’s Warren Street, Restaurant Manor Rock serves a dynamic take on continental cuisine, prepared with ingredients grown on its namesake farm 20 minutes down the road. The space is midcentury modern with Eastlake-style influences, the frequently changing menu is dictated by the farm, and the presentation is fine-dining.

The Vibe: Uncluttered opulence — all the markers of classic upscale dining with none of the preciousness. The tables are well-spaced in a bar area and back dining room, between which sits a server station designed by Charlap Hyman & Herrero — an extremely chic place to wait for the bathroom. 

The Food: Farm fresh, seasonal, and featuring an equal number of fish and meat dishes (a rarity in these parts). Our waitress suggested four-to-seven plates for two diners, but we opted for eight. With kitchen talent from NYC restaurants like Estela and Gem, the menu has faintly familiar yet deeply distinct touches. The black sticky corn in the fritters were a smokey, chewy delight. Husk cherries in pepper caramel added depth to a subtle Shephard’s Hope cheese course. Less complicated, but no less necessary, were the potatoes confited in lard (with more salty cheese).

There were also surprises, like an almost-risotto Carnaroli rice with mushrooms and a delicate cotriade with subtle broth, a mild snapper, and potatoes. Despite over-ordering, we made room for dessert, soba-cha (buckwheat) ice cream, a perfect palette cleanser.

The Drinks: The cocktail menu features six drinks, all named after the farm’s pets — three dachshunds and three cats. (The cutesy flourish may be overkill for some diners, but when in the country!) I had the Bergmont, named for the sassiest of the dogs — imagine a berry-forward Negroni with cassis and bergamot. The wine list is long, both by the glass and bottles.

The Verdict: While farm-to-table — even pure representations like this — is no longer a revolutionary way to cook, the dishes at Manor Rock find flavors in unexpected places, drawing more from herbs and vegetables rather than salt and garlic. The restaurant seems primed to become an Upstate dining destination a la Brushland or Stissing House, especially for those seeking that fresh-from-the-ground experience in a setting that is more town, less country. –Sylvie Florman

→ Restaurant Manor Rock (Hudson) • 746 Warren St • Thurs-Sat 5-9p • Reserve.