Grill marks

NY Kimchi (Rockefeller Center), Jeong Yuk Jeom (Koreatown), Howoo (Koreatown)

RESTAURANTS • Searching, Finding, FOUND

Korean dining options have come to dominate NYC hit lists for both tasting menus (Atomix, Bōm, Jua, Nōksu) and destination walk-in spots with two hour mid-week waits (Ariari, Nowon, Kisa). The city’s evolving Korean barbecue scene, however, has been a bit harder to track. Nearly indistinguishable establishments come and go with regularity. In the past few weeks, though, three high-profile (and distinct) KBBQ spots debuted in Manhattan. Here, our report from the scene:

→ NY KIMCHI: The hottest ticket of the trio opened 15 blocks north of Koreatown, across the street from the southern entrance to Rockefeller Center. NY Kimchi is the work of Sam Yoo, the chef behind Two Bridges spot Golden Diner and (also new) Korean pub grub spot Golden HOF, which occupies the street level spot here. NY Kimchi is downstairs in a room lined with natural elements on the walls lit by washi paper lampshades and deco-style pendants. Banquette-lined grill tables for four or six frame the moderately sized space, with a few grill-less dining tables in the middle of the room.

Don’t sweat scoring a grill. While NY Kimchi serves KBBQ, it’s at its best when showcasing Yoo’s take on a classic New York chophouse. Oysters Rockefeller with kimchi butter — part of a delightful seafood and raw bar menu — and a Caesar salad made with a ssamjang dressing were both fantastic. More traditional KBBQ, like an egg souffle (this one made with parmesan) and a crispy garlic chive pancake also cleared the bar, but the KBBQ itself wasn’t all that special, nor were the standard-issue, spare, accompanying banchan. Give them a minute, as they’re still finding their footing with well-intended but wildly inconsistent service (our meal for two took two and a half hours).

→ JEONG YUK JEOM: Smack in the middle of K-Town right off 32nd and Broadway, brothers Andrew and Jaeyong Son opened Jeong Yuk Jeom, an LA import focused on in-house dry-aged beef. The duo already counts among its credits the NYC service industry scene’s favorite KBBQ spot, Baekjong (since closed, slated to reopen this fall). Here, they’ve set up shop in a two-story, 175-seat space. To get to our table, we ascended a staircase with a digital display ceiling playing Armand Van Helden’s Boiler Room performance, the telegraphing of vibe pretty clear: You’re here to have fun.

And did we. In a premium set featuring dry-aged rib-eye, Jeong more than delivered on the promise of that dry-aged meat, velvety, slightly funky, and cooked to perfection. The banchan were plentiful, and service was excellent. The room is clubby-but-not-too and features storage for jackets under banquettes (so you don’t walk out smelling of meat, a neat touch). If it’s simply high-quality meat and a fun night you’re looking for, this is your spot.

→ HOWOO: The standout of these three, Howoo (above), is located slightly further south and east, on 31st and 5th, and the first of three restaurants planned for its tri-level space (a seafood spot and a restaurant specializing in housemade tofu will follow). Through a discreet wood door, dim lighting illuminates a check-in room before you’re escorted through another door into a 257-seat dining room. For such a massive dining room, each booth feels like a world unto itself — much of the space is lit by the thin light bars hung dramatically above the tables, and every seat in the house has a grill in front of it (especially cool are the bar seats, set up for parties of two, with grills built into the bar). Imagine Cote without the clubbiness.

But it’s the food that really makes this the hot ticket that it is. All offerings are prime grade beef, with an absolutely exceptional banchan program. Smartly coursed out with the order, the banchan open with an exceptional egg souffle and continue with extraordinary japchae (glass noodles) that we took the gratis re-up on several times. Next, the meat, served with market fresh vegetable ssam, anchovy ssamjang, 1,000-day-aged sea salt, and a narcotically delicious neon green ramp wasabi. Then, an exceptional kimchi stew and a delightful fermented soy short rib stew, served with individual bowls of house-milled rice. To finish: matcha soft-serve.

A substantial cocktail program and a phenomenal wine list full of big red bargains underscored what was already apparent: Beyond being New York’s best new KBBQ spot, Howoo is in the firmament of the city’s best steakhouses — and most fun restaurants for adults. –Foster Kamer

→ SEARCHING: NY Kimchi (Rockefeller Center) • 16 W 48th St, lower level • Mon-Sat 5-11p • Reserve.
→ FINDING: Jeong Yuk Jeom (Koreatown) • 44 W 32nd St • Sun-Thu 1130a-11p, Fri-Sat 11:30-12a • Reserve.
→ FOUND: Howoo (Koreatown) • 7 E 31st St • Sun-Thu 5-11p, Fri-Sat 5p-12a • Reserve.