Growth industry
WINES • FOUND Bottle
On a recent trip to the Maldives, my partner and I were generously offered a bottle of Champagne to kick off our second evening — and I was blown away by the bottle placed on our table.
Generally speaking, most hotels tend to keep their guest-offered Champagne selections to bottles sourced from well-known brands — big names, even bigger quantities of wine. So when I saw the Pierre Péters L'Esprit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2017 label staring back at us from a bath of ice, to call myself pleasantly surprised would be an understatement. There’s a ton to say about Pierre Péters as a domaine, but the main takeaway here is the notion of “grower Champagne.”
Contrary to the bigger houses — Veuve Clicquot, Moët & Chandon, etc. — Pierre Péters operates as a family-owned winery, and creates wines from vineyards that they own and farm themselves (rather than purchasing fruit from numerous growers like the big names do). Beyond the scale of production, Champagne grower-producers also embrace vintage variations and climate conditions. Thus, rather than seeking to create a consistent product year in and year out (as the big houses do), the resulting bottles are more artisanal and authentic, more reflective of the time and place of origin.
L'Esprit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2017 is made entirely from Chardonnay grown in grand cru-designated vineyards in the villages of Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil, and Oger, and is aged for four years sur-lie prior to release. Pale gold in color, the wine strikes the hard-to-achieve balance of creamy-yet-refreshing, and promises to pair well with sunsets, snacks, and salty ocean air. –Vicki Denig
→ The bottle: Pierre Péters L'Esprit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2017 • Grape Variety: Chardonnay • Region: Champagne (Côte des Blancs), France • Vinification: Grand cru-designated fruit vinified and aged 4 years on the lees prior to release • Tasting notes: Creamy yet refreshing with notes of citrus, dried fruits, and toasted brioche.
Shop: Knightsbridge Wine Shoppe (ships to NY, $99), Acker Merrall & Condit Retail (2018 vintage, $105)