It’s frogtown now
Frog Club, West Village
RESTAURANTS • Breaking Intel
Last spring, trendy Los Angeles restaurant Horses was beset by one of the stranger, nastier scandals in recent memory. The fallout made it all the way to NYC, where the opening of a sister restaurant (in the former Chumley’s space and reportedly named Froggy’s) was delayed — seemingly indefinitely. Then, last week, chef/owner Liz Johnson dropped a 12-minute video which included the revelation that the new restaurant, now known as Frog Club, was open to the public.
Frog Club is not yet findable on Resy, and its website (above) directs interested diners to email a request for a reservation. But today, the door is peeking open. Here, two reports from FOUND operatives who separately gained entry for dinner at what is sure to be the season’s most talked-about restaurant opening — and toughest table. (Mandatory stickers to cover phone cameras? $1000 to ‘Kiss the Chef’? The Dirty Kermit? Read on.)
→ STICKERS™: For starters, phone cameras — front and back — are stickered for privacy, and those stickers are required for entry. Food-wise, the spinach soufflé seen in the video is great, but do it as a side with the mains and not as an appetizer. The burger is superb. Among the desserts are Frogsbar™ and Tutti Frutti Spaghetti Sundae™. In fact, trademark symbols and “86”s can be found, really, everywhere. The latter is a reminder that this was Chumley's, after all, a space with loads of charm and a legit backstory (including purportedly serving as the birthplace of the industry term “86,” due to the building’s address).
It's not clear that we care about the weird stuff, which does include the recent history of Horses. Or maybe the weird stuff is what will make it go pop. Or maybe none of this matters to you, because it's 35 seats and getting in will make the early years of the Waverly Inn look like a cakewalk. –Correspondent 1
→ SOMEBODY KISS THE CHEF: There's a doorman in a top hat and tails at the door. He'll check your reservation, and once you get those phone stickers, you're through the door, and — in a word — wow. Patterned carpets, running the length of the place. Arguably one of the most sexy, smartly lit rooms in New York (nearly all lights radiating up from banquettes, or to the floor from the bar). Less sexy, but no less intriguing: the ceiling, covered in plates, linked via chains. (Also, in the back room, I spotted what's apparently the old Chumley's sign, suspended from the ceiling.) Finally, massive painted murals running the length of the entire restaurant, back to the bar, depicting… frogs. Apparently, throughout the 20th century? It's fucking weird, but it's also bold, opulent, and mostly, fun. Think Frog and Toad on a heroic dose of LSD.
Cocktails include something called a Dirty Kermit, explained as a green bloody mary; one guy precariously drinking it in a white sweater admitted to liking it. Wine list tends to the expensive, but some genuine bargains to be had. Everything that came from the bar was excellent.
A mid-century theme is at play on the menu. (At bottom, the text reads: "Buy the kitchen a gift" for $15, and also "Kiss the Chef" for $1000. Someone will absolutely order it at some point.) Liz Johnson was working the room in a cute paper hat, seemed happy to be there and enjoying herself. Standouts: the burger, served on an english muffin, without any dressing but for a side of watercress and a ramekin of soft butter. Remarkable. Unclear what the meat blend is, but cooked to perfection. The "sidewinder" fries that come with it, also fascinating. Think smaller steak fries, twisted into a partial mobius strip. A perfect vessel for ketchup. Also, that butter, if you're nasty.
The Spinach Souffle "New York, New York" is sure to be one of the most hotly debated dishes of the year. As a souffle, it’s texturally perfect. It’s also swamp-monster green. It's spinach, ascended to the heavenly side. It's delightful, it's quixotic, it's a conversation piece, it's a must-order. Three desserts, most people got the banana chiffon pie, so did we. It was excellent. An order of chicken with herbed rice was perfectly cooked if not on the small side — adjustments will likely be made.
Other notes: The phone sticker policy made for a better meal. More restaurants could do with it. To that end: Please keep this anonymous, don't want to be hunted down by top hat guy. Here's hoping they let him dress down for summer. –Correspondent 2
→ Frog Club (West Village) • 86 Bedford St. • Dinner Mon.-Thurs. • Email desperate pleas for reservations.