Little secrets

Ashbox Cafe (Greenpoint)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

In my work for FOUND, I'm usually searching for the breaking edge of New York City dining, sneaking an illicit photo here or finagling my way onto a coveted bar stool there. But sometimes, the most compelling places in New York are neither novel nor conspicuous, and occasionally, they’re downright quixotic — neighborhood spots of extremely specific utility, subject to adoration from a small group of passionate people in the know.

For FOUND on its second birthday, it’s time to give it up: Ashbox Cafe is one of those places, and of them, maybe my favorite.

Located in Greenpoint a block from Newtown Creek at the absolute top of Brooklyn, it’s neither easy to get there nor are its hours particularly consistent, in that it’s open from 10a until it sells out (which is sometimes 230p, sometimes 1p). One way it is consistent, however, is that if anyone else is there, you’ll have to wait a little. Ashbox is run single-handedly by Yoko Kubo, a classical musician who in 2008 moved to America from Tokyo — where she owned a small cafe — taking over Ashbox with her late husband in 2008. Today, she prepares every order of the 12-seat cafe herself. You can eat it there, so long as you don’t talk on your cell phone, but why would you, when just a five minute walk away is a stunning view of Manhattan from Greenpoint Landing? On a bluebird day, there are few better spots to take your lunch in all the five boroughs.

As for the food: It’s fantastic, and the price is right. Rarely is anything over $10 on the menu of Japanese cafe fare (sandwiches, salads, onigiri, and handrolls, plus teas and seasonal fruity vinegar drinks), and all of it (even, yes, the hot dog) is downright lovely. Most beloved is the Spicy Tuna Poke, a small, delicious cup of tuna, avocado or pickled daikon, and warm heirloom multigrain rice. But Yoko’s specials — whatever she’s making that day, whether it’s gyūdon, oyakodon, miso grilled salmon, Tonjiru (pork soup), or a Japanese beef curry — are almost always the right order, if there’s any left.

It’s beyond cliche at this point to point out the love and care someone puts into cooking their food, but given the prominent service industry people I keep running into (a certain famous pastry chef here, the GM of a hit restaurant there), and the warmth you’ll feel from anyone talking about Kubo and her cafe, this might be that one apt occasion.

I wrote to a fellow editor, here, that to the untrained eye, Ashbox’s pleasures are gossamer (bordering on ineffable), but to those in the know, it hits. No idea what that means, he answered. Lemme try again: It’s a handshake of good taste, a nod to knowing, a joy of a secret in plain sight — more or less, about as FOUND as FOUND gets. –Foster Kamer

→ Ashbox Cafe (Greenpoint) • 1154 Manhattan Ave • Mon-Sat 10a-2p(ish) • Walk-ins only.