Mouthing off

Rude Mouth (Williamsburg)

BARS • First Round

The Skinny: The last thing Williamsburg needed was another natural wine bar, but Rude Mouth owners Ava and Sophie Trilling saw an opportunity to build something different.

The Vibe: The sisters began hosting informational pop-ups a few years ago, talking about and pouring low-intervention wines in an approachable, casual way. That relaxed energy transferred to the pared-back space on Metropolitan Ave., where stalwart Williamsburg beer bar Spuyten Duyvil once lived. (It also means, for better or worse, a walk-ins only policy.) Renovated with chrome fixtures and warm wood, minimalist, framed photography anchors the room while an impressive floral arrangement punctuates the bar with color.

The Drink: Ava previously served as wine director at Nightmoves and wine manager at The Four Horsemen — for anyone who’s been to either, it’s no surprise the wine list here is excellent. A hearty pour of sparkling Domaine du Facteur Chenin Blanc is a good place to start. There’s also a lengthy list of spirits, a beer of the week, and a handful of NA options.

The Food: The food menu is tight, with gussied-up bar snacks like olives tossed in fennel pollen and 17-month aged jamón Serrano, served with a hefty stack of briny Matiz peppers and creamy salva cremasco cheese. Specialty cakes from Bodega Cakes are available to stay or to-go, as part of its “Queer Party” series. If you’re still hungry, walk the few blocks to grab a slice at L’Industrie’s newly renovated, bigger space.

The Verdict: A Brooklyn wine bar in a great location without pretense but with plenty of pedigree (and a great pour every time). –Caitlin Pangares

→ Rude Mouth (Williamsburg) • 359 Metropolitan Ave • Daily 5p-12a • Walk-ins only.