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Not Per Se, per se
RESTAURANTS • Fine Dining Report
Back at Per Se after the restaurant closed nearly 10 weeks for renovations, there’s a fresh sparkle: new rugs, sofas, and chairs in The Salon, a brand new color scheme in the dining room (blue!), a overhauled private dining room, and new ovens and stoves in the kitchen. The restaurant turns 20 in February, and Thomas Keller is smartening things up before then.
The refresh brought a buzz to dinner service last Friday, the restaurant’s first night back, including a charcoal-grilled Miyazaki A5 Wagyu with twice-baked potatoes and a DIY assortment of whipped house-made ranch, medallions of crispy bone marrow, chives and pickled pearl onions. Simple, playful, and delicious.
Meanwhile, new chairs are expected in November. Brace. –Lee Pitofsky