RESTAURANTS • The Nines
Gouie (Lower East Side), $120, Essex Market’s lower-level, sake-focused sushi counter
Noz Market (Upper East Side), $145, Sushi Noz sister spot at lower price
Sanyuu West (Chelsea), $78, caviar and gold leaf-laced nigiri found here
Thirteen Water (East Village), $75, 60-minute, umami-heavy meal thanks to abundant uni and foie