Quite industrious

Confidant (Industry City)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: New last month from a pair of Roberta’s alums, Confidant is the first fine dining spot to open up in Industry City, the sprawling retail and work complex on the Brooklyn waterfront. It’s a brave effort that mostly succeeds.

The Vibe: A vaguely industrial, large canvas equally appropriate for business dinners, dates, and shopping drama cool downs. The big space allows for a proper waiting area, replete with sinky sofas and chairs. Much of the rest of the space is dedicated to walking around room, which means the tables, especially two-tops, are tightly packed. Some of the design flourishes work, like the walnut tables handmade by a local artist. Other touches, like a pretty enough but too-familiar oversized liquor brand print, are a reminder of the psuedo-mall surroundings.

The Food: It’s not surprising to see a heritage chicken on the familiar, seasonal menu, but Confidant’s jus-drizzled preparation is great, as are the accompanying maitake mushrooms. The pouf of prawn pot pie, though, is worth a special trip to Industry City. Its pastry throws a bouquet that evokes gingham and windowsills, its interior is creamy without suffocating, and its headlining prawns are finished just to the perfect doneness. Dainty salads, crudo, and a crown of duck ($115) recommended for parties larger than two are also on offer.

The Drink: Confidant’s natural wine offerings are particularly studied (most glasses are under $20), and all the normal cocktails are available, along with some surprises.

The Verdict: A worthy new reason to trek to Industry City. –Amber Sutherland-Namako

→ Confidant (Industry City) • 67 35th St • Wed-Thu & Sun 5-10p, Fri-Sat 5-11p • Reserve.