Rum punch
Bar Kabawa (East Village)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: They launched an empire from the East Village that changed dining forever, but the Momofuku group hasn’t introduced a new restaurant concept in New York City since Bar Wayō in 2019. That changed last Thursday.
That’s when Bar Kabawa — a Caribbean-infused party of drinks and small plates helmed by Barbados-born Momofuku vet Paul Carmichael — cracked open in the former Ko space on Extra Place, the alley just off Bowery and 1st Ave. It’s a joyful prelude to a full-scale Kabawa opening next door later this year.
The Vibe: The bar is marked by a purple neon sign advertising WINE & DAIQUIRIS. Say less. Inside, banging afro-caribbean pop greeted us, the place/party in full swing at 730p. Though the music got softer as we got further from prime time, this is not a place for a quiet night out — but it is fun. Donning tie-dyed aprons (which match tie-dyed fabric coasters) and big smiles, Carmichael and crew are running one of the more chill, happy versions of a highly anticipated spot we’ve seen.
The Space: Small, densely packed (with people and energy). All in, there are about two dozen seats, plus six spots at a standing table. The eight-seat bar lines the room’s right side facing the open kitchen. On the left, a banquette frames a row of high tops for two, with two tables that can fit three on the ends. But the house’s prime seat is in the very back — a low, curved corner banquette that could comfortably seat five, maybe squeeze six. In the middle of the action, the standing table may be the second-best spot in the house.
The Drink: The menu opens with a limerick about drinking rum, followed by two pages full of rum drinks (and three N/As), then eventually, your food options. Let that guide you, philosophically: While you can certainly make a full meal out of Carmichael’s small plates and stuffed, breaded Caribbean patties, Bar Kabawa is best approached as a drinks-and-snacks situation, letting the former drive your desire for the latter.
The house daiquiri is easily spotted by its presentation of a glass full of shaved ice, over which the drink is dramatically poured. But two large format cocktails — a Planter’s Punch and a Rum & The Coconut, which, of course, arrives en la coconut, with two straws — drew the most eyes and appeared mostly closely aligned with the bar’s party vibe. The menu also gives the public access to Momofuku Ko’s formidable wine cellar, which has been gathering dust for a minute. There are some deep bargains on astounding vintages to be found on the list.
The Food: Smaller bites include a couple of pieces of pickled and beautifully spiced okra, a dish of raw bay scallops in a drinkable milky coconut broth, and fish paté with a remarkable, brûléed top. Then there are the stuffed patties, eight strong, split evenly into two groups (baked and fried). Among our group, the favorites were the geera goat and curried crab (baked) patties, and on the fried side, the short rib, bone marrow, and conch patty, as well as the patty with duck and foie gras. Note that the patties are hard to share by more than two. Get your own; it’s hard to go wrong with any of them.
The Verdict: The start of a new chapter (vibe shift?) for Momofuku and one hell of a teaser for what’s to come next door, Bar Kabawa is a fun, boozy, high-end party with low-key good-time vibes and the best patties this side of White Plains Road. –Foster Kamer
→ Bar Kabawa (East Village) • 8 Extra Pl • Tue-Sat 530p-12a • Reserve.