Rustically refined
Locanda Verde, DUMBO Offices, Care and Feeding, K’Far, Valor Provisions, best Eastern European restaurants, FOUND LDN & Paris, MORE
RESTAURANTS • First Person
Yards to go
Over the course of several recent winter afternoons, FOUND visited Hudson Yards to conduct a two-point spot check on the current state of lunch. Here, part one.
My first stop was with a colleague at Locanda Verde, new to the retail complex as of November, located directly across from the subway entrance. It’s the second outpost of the restaurant, the first having opened as a taverna by chef Andrew Carmellini, Luke Ostrom, and Josh Pickard 15 years ago in Tribeca. Now matured into more of a ristorante, the original Locanda still holds steady as a reliably excellent source of celeb-spotting and rustically refined pan-Italian and Italian-American cuisine. Officially, the new Locanda Verde in the Hudson Yards neighborhood is an osteria, though the micro-distinctions between semi-rustic Italian restaurant categories can begin to feel arbitrary when dining out in two of the city’s most expensive neighborhoods.
I seriously doubt there’s another osteria, in Italy or elsewhere, whose design matches the warm-but-polished, high-ceilinged elegance of the Locanda Verde Hudson Yards dining room. It’s the work of Roman and Williams, the firm responsible for Le Mercerie, Le Coucou, and Upland, along with previous Carmellini projects The Dutch and Lafayette.
Fans of the Tribeca location of Locanda Verde will recognize signature dishes — juicy lamb meatball sliders, tangy and fluffy sheep’s milk ricotta, liberally drizzled with green olive oil and served with a stack of toast, and meat-stuffed ravioli modeled on Carmellini’s grandmother’s recipe. At Hudson Yards, Carmellini et al have added both crudi (slices of bigeye tuna served with a dab of caperberry-enlivened tonnato sauce, for example) and at dinner, some large-format entrées (whole chicken, dry-aged Florentine-style steak).
My lunch order began with a head of radicchio spatchcocked into the shape of a peony for maximum eye appeal, with a sweet, date-intensive vinaigrette. The equally sweet tortelli di zucci — tender packets of butternut squash with a fruity mostarda condiment — were perfect, but made me wish I’d made a more strategically savory-acidic order. My wiser lunch date started with the alliteratively constructed insalata d’Andrea (a fine tangle of arugula, apple, almond, and asiago), followed by the jet-black chitarra nero pasta, tossed with a well-balanced mixture of buttery crab, earthy bottarga, and chilis.
The service was crisp and friendly, the crowd a nice mixture of business lunchers and people in no hurry to get anywhere. I look forward to going back for dinner, to linger over a lamb shank and a pistachio crespelle. –Laurie Woolever
→ Locanda Verde (Hudson Yards) • 50 Hudson Yards • Mon-Thur 1130a-3p & 5p-10p, Fri 1130a-3p & 5p-11p, Sat 5-11p, Sun 5-10p • Reserve.
→ Shop: Care and Feeding: A Memoir • Today is publication day for FOUND contributor Laurie Woolever’s memoir of a 25-year career in food and media, laced through with addiction and recovery, and bookended by two giants of the industry • $26.09 at Amazon.
FOUNDLISTING • Office Spaces
Snøhetta joins over 150+ design firms working from DUMBO
NEIGHBORHOOD NOW HOME TO 150+ DESIGN COMPANIES: Design studio Snøhetta is the latest in a long list of creative firms to relocate to DUMBO, signing a 25K-SF top floor lease last month at Two Trees’ 55 Washington St. The neighborhood has become a dynamic hub that combines big city benefits with the intimacy of a small community. The payoff is in Two Trees’ portfolio of DUMBO Offices.
Steps from waterfront parks and buzzy restaurants (like Cecconi’s for lunch and Malka and Kinjo for dinner), the industrial-chic workplaces feature soaring ceilings, top-tier amenities, and lush rooftops. Among the over 150 architecture and reactive design firms who have joined Snøhetta in making the move: Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG), Henrybuilt, Post Company, Six Penny, and more.
“Joining the vibrant and creative community of DUMBO is an exciting step for us as we continue to grow the business,” said Elaine Molinar, partner and managing director at Snøhetta. “Our new office space embodies the collaborative approach that defines our work in a location which fosters innovation and connection to explore new ideas alongside so many other talented design firms.”
In addition to the creative energy, companies that move to Brooklyn are eligible for incentives like REAP (Relocation and Employment Assistance Program), which provides up to $3,000 annually per full-time employee, for up to 12 years. The Two Trees team will help you apply.
→ DUMBO Offices (DUMBO) • From 500-5000 SF • Two Trees. [spon]
RESTAURANTS • The Ticket
Nowruz 2025 • 3-course prix fixe celebrating Persian New Year • Sofreh (Prospect Heights) • Thur 3/20 & Fri 3/21 @ 530p, $145 per
Halo Perez-Gallardo of Lil Debs Oasis x Nura • collaboration with Husdon’s Lil Deb’s Oasis featuring 4-course prix fixe plus à la carte items, after-party with DJ • Nura (Greenpoint) • Thur 3/20 @ 530p, $85-$125 per
Cabaret Night at Casino • 4 courses and 4 performances from dancers, musicians, and ventriloquist • Casino (Dimes Square) • Thurs 4/3 @ 630p, $225 per
NYC RESTAURANT LINKS: Fine dining chef Gabriel Kreuther planning two new spots in Hudson Yards’ The Spiral • Silver Moon Bakery on Upper West Side to shutter on 3/23 • American Psycho-themed bar Bateman’s opens in East Village • A new restaurant for the new New Museum, coming this fall • Carbone, the coffee table book • Some of NYC’s top bar talent now flowing back to hotel bars.
WORK • Tuesday Routine
Big family
SAM LEVENFELD • chef de cuisine • K’Far Brooklyn
Neighborhood you work in: Williamsburg
Neighborhood you live in: Greenpoint
It’s Tuesday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
Tuesdays are the start of my week. (As a chef, Sundays and Mondays are my days off.) Today, I’m starting with a cup of coffee and catching up on emails, getting organized for the week. I get over to The Hoxton — where K’Far is located — by 10a and check in with our opening chef who’s been there since 6. We talk through what’s been done so far and what still needs to be handled. From there, I check in with pretty much everyone in the building.
What’s on the agenda for today?
Making family meal for the hotel — I’ll be cooking Moroccan chicken tagine and yellow rice for over 100 people. Beyond that, cooking some new specials for K’Far that we’re going to taste with the sous chefs.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I went to OMG Shawarma in the West Village the other day and already want to go back. I got the veal shawarma, it was super tender and really unique. I think it’s always good to taste different takes on dishes within your own cuisine. I pull a lot of inspiration from other Middle Eastern cuisines and I’m always impressed by the breadth and creativity of food in this region.
I’ll also make my way to Wenwen in Greenpoint this week — they’re one of my go-to’s in the neighborhood, and I’ve gotten to know their chef, Eric, pretty well. He’s a great guy and makes really excellent food. My most-ordered item is the chicken sandwich that you can only get at brunch. It’s out of control how good it is. It’s this perfectly crispy chicken thigh topped with pickled cabbage and spicy mayo. The seaweed-dusted fries that come with it are unbelievable too. Back here in Williamsburg, I’m loving the revamped Kellogg’s Diner. Their chicken pot pie is delectable.
How about a little leisure or culture?
I was in Chicago last fall for a Bears game. I worked at Momotaro and Cira in the West Loop for a few years before moving out to Brooklyn to help open Laser Wolf. Walking the neighborhood always makes me a little nostalgic. I always like paying visits to some of (our restaurant group) Boka’s properties when I’m in town. I went to Alla Vita for dinner one night. I had been craving a good chicken parmesan, and theirs is truly spectacular. I can’t be in Chicago without stopping by the Izakaya at Momotaro for sake. I love sake, especially Rihaku’s Dreamy Clouds.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
For my birthday, I treated myself to a new chef’s knife from Japanese Knife Imports. It’s my fifth or sixth time buying from them, the quality is amazing, and their customer service is great.
What NYC store or service do you love to recommend?
I’ve gone to a lot of friends’ weddings recently, and Suitsupply in Williamsburg has been consistently great. Their team in store is super helpful. Definitely recommend checking them out if you’re looking for advice on suit styles or need alterations.
WORK • Launches
New FOUNDs
As we mentioned in this space last week (and are not above mentioning again), we’ve been running test issues for both FOUND Paris and FOUND LDN and both are looking good. We’re still on track for Q1 launches in both markets.
As with the U.S. editions of FOUND, the central idea is to help locals get more out of their cities (and surrounds). But both Paris and London will be good and useful reads for savvy visitors, too. If you’re in either camp (or have friends who are), use these early-access links to get on the lists:
Meanwhile, we’ve assembled a talented team of contributors on the ground in each city. But there’s always room for more sharp writers (and non-writers with good taste). If you’d like to join the party, drop us a line at found@foundparis.com or found@foundldn.com.
WORK LINKS: Goldman Sachs reportedly trimming 3-5% of staff this spring • Newmark expands HQ to 184K SF on Park Ave • Deloitte links bonuses to in-office attendance • Parents in tech want their kids to go into the arts instead • Return office workers don’t want sandwiches for lunch anymore.
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Larder
Farms to tables
Even in New York City, where great protein purveyors abound, finding an online butcher to deliver high-quality, ethically-raised proteins from independent ranches is a major perk. Valor Provisions offers exactly that: excellent quality Wagyu and Black Angus beef, heritage pork, and more sourced from small, American-owned farms. U.S. Army veteran Patrick Montgomery, who owns the Kansas City ranch KC Cattle Company, launched Valor’s online retail shop last November as a way to support American ranches embracing these sorts of agriculture practices.
I ordered pork chops, black Angus cowboy, black Angus brisket, wagyu ribeye, and wagyu skirt steak. The meat arrived within a few days, packed with ice packs. My husband and I are traditionalists for the most part when it comes to cooking beef — he usually does a reverse sear on steaks, first cooking it low and slow in the oven, then finishing it in a pan to caramelize the outside before serving. It’s so easy to buy flavorless beef at a regular market (and even expensive markets), but I found the beef from Valor to be very high quality — everything we tried had great flavor.
In addition to shopping à la carte on the website, a one-time $100 fee activates a lifetime membership with discounts of nearly 40% off. Customers can also sign up for pre-order options for beef shares in different sizes, allowing them to purchase portions of Wagyu or Black Angus beef directly from partner farms. –Kat Odell
→ Shop: Valor Provisions • à la carte & memberships $100 per.
GOODS & SERVICES LINKS: Opening set for 3/21 for Printemps at One Wall Street • New Hyundai Ioniq 9 is like a private jet on wheels • Instant coffee is making a comeback and it’s… good • Real men wear leggings • Gen Z has a big budget line for concert tix.
ASK FOUND
Hit reply or email found@foundny.com with questions and/or answers.
Three FOUND subscriber PROMPTS that require your immediate attention:
After London and Paris, where should FOUND launch next?
What shops are you keeping an eye on for spring lines?
Which outdoor dining and rooftop spots are you most excited to see reopen?
RESTAURANTS • The Nines
Restaurants, Eastern European
The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of the best. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or found@foundny.com.
Çka Ka Qëllue (Murray Hill), heavy dairy and hearty grilled meat via Albania