Salumeria by day, osteria by night

GETAWAYS • North Fork

The couple who made Nolita’s Peasant an NYC fixture for two decades have migrated to the North Fork. In June, Frank DeCarlo, the chef with a penchant for vintage everything — espresso makers, meat slicers, even a cash register — and his wife Dulcinea Benson opened Salumeria Sarto, a spacious Italian specialty shop and cafe in Greenport, which doubles on Friday and Saturday nights as a five-table set-menu osteria. 

The seasonal Italian menu spans six courses including dessert and begins with one of DeCarlo’s house-baked breads, such as pane-ceccina (a chickpea flatbread), before moving into a mix of seafood, meats, and vegetables, like gurgulione — an Italian take on ratatouille with ripe tomatoes, eggplant, and zucchini — and Peasant classics such as lobster risotto and suckling pig. With 16 seats, booking is essential.

In need of Italian larder goods? Wooden shelves along the walls offer supersized dry pasta, metal tins of olive oil, and tiny jars of Shelter Island honey. Call it a night after an espresso pulled from DeCarlo’s retro Rancilio brewer. –Kat Odell

→ Salumeria Sarto (Greenport), 19 Front St., Tock.