The Japanese-Italian way
L’Americana, Gramercy
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A brand-new casual Italian cafe ambitiously remixed in a Japanese pitch, L’Americana on Irving Place in Gramercy is the latest genre-bender from Takuma Watanabe, the acclaimed bartender behind Japanese cocktail den Martiny’s around the corner.
The Vibe: Buzzy and energetic, with a white marble counter running the restaurant’s length, L’Americana presents as a neighborhood joint, albeit one aiming higher than your average trattoria. Wood paneling and a white coffered ceiling lend a lived-in look, while scattered bronze embellishments hint at a slightly more elevated experience. As they do in the upscale bars of Japan, bartenders here don formal attire, maroon jackets and black ties. And yet: there are no reservations to be had — the room is exclusively reserved for walk-ins.
The Drinks: Cocktails are fantastic — there’s no wrong move. Expertly balanced bitters-based drinks, heavy on Campari and various vermouths, stand out. The namesake L’Americana is a beautiful, bittersweet blend of Campari, vermouth, espresso, Angostura bitters, and just a splash of soda water. In a list full of Negroni variations, the Tomatini, a crystal-clear, gin-based tomato water with cream cheese, might seem out of place. But it’s not –– one of Wantanabe’s signature drinks at Martiny’s is the Caprese, another tomato-water number, spiked with whiskey.
The Food: Former Benoit chef Suchandrima Mukherjee helped shape the concise food menu of snacks and pasta. Her lasagna is a flat-out hit: soft, house-made sheets layered between a San Marzano bolognese, Parmesan fondue, and veal reduction. Another to try: her dried parsley-dusted plate of spaghetti aglio e olio in an egg-yolk-orange-hued sauce flavored with spicy pepperoncini.
The Verdict: L’Americana runs more bar than restaurant, but it's something different from all angles and an instant neighborhood winner. –Kat Odell
→ L’Americana (Gramercy), 51 Irving Pl.• Mon-Sat, 5p-12a • Walk-ins only.