UP AND UP

INTEL • Fine Dining Report

UP AND UP: At Per Se in the Time Warner Center, one of the most expensive menus in town has gotten even pricier, now beginning at $425 per guest (service included, up from $395). I sampled it last month on my 63rd visit, discovering neither complacency nor redundancy as the team continues to push boundaries with creativity and finesse. I can still taste the shima aji (striped jack) katsu with bull-dog sauce. Even the oft-overlooked palate cleanser — “Negroni sorbet” with Campari granité, Buddha’s hand, and juniper berry — was memorable. My favorite course, though, was a large-format whole baked rainbow trout stuffed with a black truffle mousse and finished with “sauce laitue,” a lettuce sauce with golden Ossetra caviar from Regiis Ova. Unforgettable — and so very Per Se. Reserve. –Lee Pitofsky